2. 1. Use a wire brush to loosen the mineral deposits around the nut. Re: How to remove lock nut on bottom of flush valve? Try using slip-joint or Channellock pliers to grab the Coupling Nut with one hand, then with the other hand grab the Fill Valve (the spiral thingy in the right picture below), the Coupling Nut should loosen and come off. Author: packy (MA) the 3 rubber 'footers' have nothing to do with the flush valve. To make sure you hit the nut itself and not the surrounding threads, place a center punch on the nut and strike the punch with a hammer. just unscrew the big hex nut and the valve will come loose.. Edited 1 times. Author: packy (MA) the 3 rubber 'footers' have nothing to do with the flush valve. Easy way to go about it. Sometimes loosening a stuck brass fitting is as easy as turning the locknut counterclockwise to tighten it further and then turning clockwise to loosen. There's probably some minerals in there, but I suspect the original installer used some serious torque to ensure it wouldn't leak. It is OK to cut through the old fill valve as it is being replaced anyway. Loosen the nut that secures the fill valve to the water supply line by turning it counterclockwise with pliers or a wrench. Remove the nut, washer and lock nut. Be careful, that stuff is flammable. Tap with a hammer. Give 4-5 sharp tugs and see if the bolt moves. Like removing a bolt. Hook the wrench onto the bolt and grasp the nut with a pair of large pliers. Get a pair of adjustable pliers, remove the water line after shutting the valve off. Lock nuts come in various sizes for many different applications and are most often used by mechanics and engineers to hold wheels in place. It will come loose. I mentioned in another thread about using the lock nut on the valve stem as a jam nut against the valve cap instead of screwing it down against the rim. Remember to twist counter clockwise. Re: How to remove lock nut on bottom of flush valve? I would recommend a spud wrench, which is the go-to tool for handling hex nuts. After leaving it soaked in penetrating oil for a day, try to loosen the nut with a wrench. The valve is trash anyway, so you cut the nuts off. Then finish loosening the nut with your fingers. Empty the bucket and place it underneath the water supply line. You might not have to. Like removing a bolt. Gently pull the nut down. I have done this before and always seem to have a problem. they are kohler's version of gaskets for the tank to bowl bolts. 4. This is just to make it easier to work on, and is not required. Then try to loosen it using a correctly sized wrench. Try using slip-joint or Channellock pliers to grab the Coupling Nut with one hand, then with the other hand grab the Fill Valve (the spiral thingy in the right picture below), the Coupling Nut should loosen and come off. Also loosen the nut that holds the fill valve in place. Wipe off any remaining residues with a rag. It has unusually low viscosity, which allows it to penetrate very tight spaces easily. recommendation. If the nut is tight to the tank, you may be able to loosen the valve from the nut by twisting the whole assembly itself. Then use oil and a hammer to loosen. Penetrating oil is a special type of grease sold at home improvement centers and hardware stores. You have a shower socket set? Hopefully it will loosen the nut… Or take one hand and hold the nut and loosen the fill valve toward the bottom inside the tank with your other hand. Hold the nut in position and pull on the end of the wrench. Remove the fill valve. Tighten the fixture or plumbing nut with a wrench or locking pliers to break the grip of the mineral deposits; then turn in the opposite direction to loosen it. Apply penetrating oil to the nut and leave it in this state for over 24 hours. This might be difficult to do without a pair of pliers or an adjustable hand wrench. 1. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. A 12" supply tube is usually long enough.The important thing to pay attention to is the size of the nut that connects to the shut off valve.It is usually 3/8" but older galvanized plumbing systems could be 1/2". I scrubbed the nut under the toilet with a wire brush and WD-40. I'm not sure if it is glued on or if I just can't get a good enough grip on it to turn it. Tap the end of the bolt a half-dozen times with a hammer to help loosen the threads and allow the oil to penetrate. To make sure you hit the nut itself and not the surrounding threads, place a center punch on the nut and strike the punch with a hammer. A lock nut will not loosen, even under intense vibrations. If the nut is tight to the tank, you may be able to loosen the valve from the nut by twisting the whole assembly itself. On an all plastic set up, this should not be necassary. The end of the water … The valve is connected to a rubber ball float. You will have to hold the inside piece with your hand while applying the pliers to the underside nut. Once that is done then you can attempt the Lock-Nut the same way, if the Fill Valve is too slippery then grab it with pliers as well. 1. Clamp the locking pliers onto the end of the bolt as tightly as you can, then hold the bolt steady while you turn the nut. Apply heat. Use a wire brush to loosen the mineral deposits around the nut. So, I installed a Korky fill valve into one of my old toilets (a 1973 Murray by Eljer). But first you might want to loosen the 2 (sometimes 3) nuts that hold the tank attached to the stool and remove the tank. Use a pair of pliers to just loosen the coupling nut. Put a wrench on the fixture or nut and strike the handle sharply with a hammer to loosen the fixture. The nut holding the supply line to the shutoff valve won't budge. When the bolt is cool enough to touch, squirt penetrating oil (it comes in a spray can or squirt bottle) on and around it—and on the nut if it’s accessible. Jarring the nut can break its bond to the bolt. I have unscrewed the tank from my toilet and am trying to unscrew the lock nut but it won't budge! Remove the lock nut by turning it with your pliers. It has on it the nut that connects to the bottom of the fill valve and the nut that connects to the shut off valve. Once those two steps were done, I was able to unscrew the screw under the toilet for the fill valve attachment without any further trouble. 3. Attach the socket to the wrench and place it over the lock nut. 0 0. Be careful though, as both these methods can damage your faucet. An impact driver and a set of high-end hex-shaft nut drivers are all you need to loosen small nuts and bolts. Rock The Bolt: This is another one to try early in the process, and in-conjunction with other methods.Using a ratchet and socket, slowly work the bolt or nut back and forth. You can drive it off with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, carefully pull the supply line out of the valve underneath the tank. just unscrew the big hex nut and the valve will come loose.. Edited 1 times. Don't advertise or try to compare pricing, thanks, Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. Many bolts are brass, so they can easily be cut with a hacksaw. Position the new valve in place of the faulty one. Poor design. But this time it might have saved me from ripping a stem out of a tube so I thought it was worth a … I am trying to replace the valves inside the toilet tank. they are kohler's version of gaskets for the tank to bowl bolts. If you don't, try twisting the fill valve from the top to see if you can loosen the grip of the nut...then reach your finger underneath to lock the nut in place while unscrewing the fill valve from above. I can’t replace my fill valve until I can loosen it. All else fails, very carefully hold a hacksaw blade inyour hand and cut the nut. The new fill valve will go on similar to how the old one came off. Very very carefully. Disconnect the water supply tube or hose that connects the water supply valve to the fill valve. If this doesn't work, it's on to plan B, which is to cut the nut off. www.bobsplumbingvideos.com/removing-a-frozen-fill-valve-nut Brass fittings, primary used on hot or cold water lines to connect one piece of pipe to another, become stuck due to corrosion or over-tightening. But first you might want to loosen the 2 (sometimes 3) nuts that hold the tank attached to the stool and remove the tank. This time I cannot remove the two plastic nuts under the tank, holding the metal intake tube to the tank and the valve. As you unscrew the nut, a bit of water may drip out of the tank. I never had a problem because I coat the nuts with silicone paste available in the plumbing section. Hello gigilinn and welcome to the community! Moving the nut in any direction is progress. Push it firmly onto the nut. Locate the coupling nut on the underside of the toilet tank. I hate that some asshole came up with that. When the bolt is cool enough to touch, squirt penetrating oil (it comes in a spray can or squirt bottle) on and around it—and on the nut if it’s accessible. They are different on each side, making them very difficult to get off. Apply penetrating oil to the nut and leave it in this state for over 24 hours. Then I clipped a vice grips to the fill valve base inside the toilet. Cut in two places. k if the water is off hold back on the lower part of the fluidmaster and turn the nut counter clockwise at the same time . Be careful, that stuff is flammable. Tap the end of the bolt a half-dozen times with a hammer to help loosen the threads and allow the oil to penetrate. Once you’ve sprayed the valve, grip the valve with a plumber’s wrench, and use a rubber mallet or a ham… Then use oil and a hammer to loosen. Why would you set the damn nut up in the tank? "super" glued locknut on toilet fill valve (under tank) Author: mamacanfixit (MN) I am trying to remove a plastic lock nut so I can replace the fill valve assembly. Apply heat. Bathtub Drain Stopper / Trip Waste Assembly. The packing nut of the valve, also called the bonnet nut, is unscrewed to loosen the shutoff valve knob and make it easier to turn. Your email address will not be published. For larger nuts and bolts, you'll need an impact gun and a set of six-point, impact-rated (black finish) sockets. Remove the old fill valve. The traditional grease-and-wrench approach to opening a stuck shut off valve is basically a matter of trial and error. Then, carefully pull the supply line out of the valve underneath the tank. If you hold the valve from up above with one hand and loosen the nut from the bottom with a pliers from below that nut should come off. Remember to twist counter clockwise. Source(s): carpenter/handyman. Maybe, try to grip the valve on the inside of the tank. The metal shutoff valve connects to a PVC feed pipe. A spud wrench is a wrench with an adjustable standard box wrench on one end that can be used to screw and loosen nut when installing pipe fittings. Then try to loosen it using a correctly sized wrench. Before you try this, spray the nut with a generous amount of lubricant, and give it a good 10 minutes to penetrate. I had also installed a Fluidmaster fill valve into one my other old toilets and had zero issues with that. Tap with a hammer. This nut is a coupling that connects the supply line to the fill valve. some tiomes the nut can get cross threded and wont budge i have found that a short drill and drill bit will be needed to remove the ballcock you would have to start by drilling the nut in a few places to break it off After leaving it soaked in penetrating oil for a day, try to loosen the nut with a wrench. Hello gigilinn and welcome to the community! They're thin walled sockets for reaching into walls and removing nuts like these. Step 3 - Replace the Valve. Hopefully it will loosen … Jarring the nut can break its bond to the bolt. Tighten the nut. Step 2 - Remove the Valve. I am trying to replace the flush valve in my toilet. After breaking the "fins" off the nut while using wrench I tried holding the nut and turning the part in the tank. Use your pliers to loosen the nut under the tank. Raise the pipeline from the overflow tube. 3. Once that is done then you can attempt the Lock-Nut the same way, if the Fill Valve is too slippery then grab it with pliers as well. Otherwise you can use a wrench to loosen the lock, breaking off any rust that has accumulated therein. Insert the end of your box-end wrench into a hollow metal bar. Hello! 2. This is just to make it easier to work on, and is not required. Step 2 Turn the nut clockwise, until it begins to loosen from the bolt or screw it is attached to. Turn off the water supply at the house meter. Loosen the bolt with an extended wrench. Then, spray down the stuck valve with penetrating oil. Conclusion Source(s): carpenter/handyman. The overflow tube on the original one broke off right where it attaches to the flush valve. 0 0. Detach the toilet fill valve. Good luck Maybe, try to grip the valve on the inside of the tank. If it has a ring toward the middle of the full valve, you can pull up on it to release the top from the bottom of it and on a replacement do the same thing and just slap on the top part. One of the most reliable ways of loosening a tight lock nut is by hammering it. Wipe off any remaining residues with a rag. Beneath the tank, loosen the lock nut that holds the fill valve to the tank. 2. Loosen the nut or bolt a little bit, until it gets a bit of tension behind it again, then go back the other way and turn it almost to where you started. Tighten the nut. Web Design & Marketing by Urmil Patel. Loosen the nut that secures the fill valve to the water supply line by turning it counterclockwise with pliers or a wrench. Moving the nut in any direction is progress. Cut if off Start by turning off the main water shut off valve to the house. I can't figure out a way to secure the valve and leverage against that to loosen the nut. As you unscrew the nut, a bit of water may drip out of the tank. 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